Alice and I left home around 1:00pm on June 29th with 3 Yorkies, Tootsie, Benny, Muffy and pulling our teardrop camper loaded with food and drinks. The main purpose for the trip was to attend the joining of our nephew Jed to the love of his life Shelley, in Boulder Montana. My sister Di (Jed's mom) and her daughter Roni also live out there. Since I lived in Montana for 4 years while working in Yellowstone National Park in the early 80's, I was excited to go back and see the mountains again and see everyone's houses. The first leg of our journey was a 4-hour drive to Indianapolis, Indiana to see our friends Hal and Jeanette.
We met Hal and Jeanette in Los Cabo, Mexico in October 2017 and kept promising we would get together again. We finally made it. We spent the evening visiting, eating great food and trying Hal's homemade beer. I got free lessons in shooting pool and swinging a golf club. Unfortunately, we had to leave by 9 the next morning to stay on schedule. I guess I'm kind of a schedule freak. We made plans to try and see them on the way home.
Saturday June 30th - Leaving Indy, we drove interstates 74, 39 to 90-94 going through Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota into Montana. The northern route so to speak. After 10 hours of driving we stopped just west of St Paul/ Minneapolis in Rodgers, MN and camped in a Cabela's parking lot. We had permission and it was just Alice and I, 3 dogs and a shit load of mosquitoes. There was a pizza shop down the road, Broadway Pizza and Grill so we ordered a pizza and had a drink while it was cooking. Around 4 their time (1 hour behind Ohio) the dogs had to go out so I walked them in the dark and noticed a sprinkle in the air. I woke Alice and told her we should get going to beat the rain.
Pictures of 6-30Sunday July 1st - We got on the road and it started to rain harder. It was getting daylight now and we drove. And we drove, as we did everyday on vacation. The rain fell and fell all the way to Fargo, North Dakota. The whole way through Minnesota it rained from start to finish. Rain water found its way into the camper around the door wetting the blankets on my side. Fargo was a nice quite place at the visitor's center. We relaxed fed and let the dogs enjoy time out of the car and we ate left over pizza. You know those rubble strips they are cutting into the passing lanes of highways? When I drive over them the whole car vibrates and drives the dogs crazy. They keep climbing on Alice's back and lap driving her nuts. Everyone was happy when we stopped in Bismarck and had lunch at Sickies Bar and Grill. The dogs were allowed on the patio and really enjoyed their freedom from the car in the now 95° heat and I loved their wings and beer. It was a 6-hour drive across North Dakota and the road was straight but had lots of up and down rolling hills. That drove the cruise control crazy. In western N.D. is the Theodore Roosevelt National Park and Grasslands. It is the Badlands of N.D. We stopped and took lots of pictures and seeing the landscape change from rolling hills to badlands so abruptly was amazing. The weather was beautiful now as we drove into Montana towards the Fort Peck Recreation area. The big blue sky and grassy buttes really stood out as cattle grazed in the immense open spaces. It was getting late now after 10.5 hours on the road so we drove back a lane towards the Rock Creek Fishing Access and found a primitive campsite on Fort Peck Lake with 4 other campers. We relaxed as the sun dropped below the horizon and since we are now 2-hours behind Ohio time, we were really tired.
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Monday July 2nd - Woke up with the sun and had morning drinks while watching a pelican swim around in the bay behind the camper. We had to physic ourselves up for another 7-hours in the car with the dogs. Alice started riding in the back with them which stopped them from crawling over the seats to get in front. We took beautiful St Rt 2 which goes across northern Montana all the way towards Glacier National Park, our destination for the day. Driving through all those small farming towns was great. We saw lots of old time grain elevators and lots of modern trains servicing them. Grain cars, coal cars and tank cars passed each and the amount of trains kept the rails hot. We came upon the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and the town of Browning. In the distance we could see the looming mountains of Glacier N.P. The small tourist village of East Glacier was in sight after getting through a construction zone. In fact, we had way too many construction zones in our travels. Some roads were completely ripped out and we drove on dirt and stones quite often. At the edge of East Glacier, which was all of 300 yards long, sits Johnson's Campground, a privately own campground just outside the park. Dave, a friend of Di's family had driven his camper out for the wedding and spent some time at Di's house. When our brother John flew into Montana, the two of them met Alice and I for a tour of Glacier. Dave had campsites already reserved for us and soon we were set up and enjoying cold beers. Later all of us, Alice, Dave, John, me, Tootsie, Benny and Muffy took a walk along the 300-yard stretch of town where we found a place for drinks that let the dogs in. Later we bought some firewood and had a great Smokey and windy fire in the now low 50's temperatures. It was cold for July there in the mountains.
Pictures of 7-2Tuesday July 3rd - Up at the crack of dawn which was 5:00am mountain time. The overnight low was 40 which made hot drinks mandatory. We had heavy coats on and the dogs even had to wear sweaters to stay warm. We got hot showers and breakfast then headed for Glacier. I drove the 4 of us to the visitor center then we started up the 50 mile "Going to the Sun Highway." We saw lots of mountains, waterfalls, flowers, fog, snow flakes and even a bear with a cub. Driving east to west over Logan Pass at 6646 feet we stopped on top at the foggy visitor's center as did scores of other people, then drove downhill to the McDonald Lake Lodge. We had drinks while looking at the Swiss style lodge and Lake McDonald. Then we headed into West Glacier, another small tourist town and had lunch at Glacier Highland Bar and Grill. Going back over the "Going to the Sun" road was nerve racking for me. I'm scared of heights and driving on the outside bend of those very steep hills and curvy roads had my palms seating. Fog was everywhere the higher up we went. John was the first to see the bears on the way back down. A brown mother sow with a black cub. As soon as we stopped and started taking pictures, it seemed like the whole world noticed us and the road got jam packed with traffic. We made it back to camp, relaxed in a strong breeze and 50's temps, had another campfire and inhaled the fresh mountain air. Life is Good on vacation!!
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Wednesday July 4th - Happy Fourth! We slept in and moved about very slowly. Took hot showers and enjoyed the moment. Dave and John got packed and headed south to the day's destination, the town of Choteau. Everyone was meeting there for the American Legion's Rodeo. We soon followed enjoying the rolling fields and the Glacier mountains retreating in the distance. We enjoyed the rodeo in now hot sunshine. It's amazing what an elevation change can do for the temperature. We got to meet more family and wedding guests at the rodeo. Shelley's side of the family was there as were local friends from Montana. The rodeo was rough on man and beast with one rider leaving by ambulance and a horse possibly being euthanized with a broken leg. After the rodeo we drove to Di's house around Wolf Creek, MT. Her place is higher up than Choteau with more trees and cooler temps near the Lewis and Clark mountain range. We got to see her paradise in the mountains. Di, John, Alice and I our 3 dogs and Frankie, Di's dog had dinner and sat around a campfire having family time. Who would ever have thought the 3 of us would be together in Montana?
Pictures of 7-4Thursday July 5th - Woke to beautiful sunshine streaming through the camper window. It was cool at night but quickly warmed to the 80's. Di had to leave to work on wedding items so John and I walked her property and explored the middle fork of the Dearborn River, which in Ohio would be called a little creek. The water was mountain cold and very clear. Later Alice and I left John and the dogs there and went to Great Falls, MT to meet Di who was picking up her guy Mike at the airport. We all joined at Big Mo's Brewery for lunch, good wings and better pizza. Di then headed to Jed's place to help get ready as he was having a cookout for anyone in town for the wedding. Mike followed Alice and I to another brewery that makes the Jeremiah Johnson brands. Tasting laws in Montana are very different than Ohio. You can have up to 48 ounces per day and only between the hours of 10:00 am and 8:00 pm. Leaving that place we hit a road block. President Trump was giving a speech in Great Falls and all roads from the airport to the building across from that brewery were closed. We drove around trying to find an alternate route but none was found. We were blocked for over 30 minutes before getting back on track to Jed and Shelley's house. It was hot now and there isn't much shade in the "low Lands. We ate, played games, met other wedding guests and socialized until time to head back to Di's. Everywhere you travel out west takes time. Di lives and hour from Jed, an hour from Roni, an hour there two hours here, etc. Had another evening campfire then retired to the camper for rest. The 2-hour time different still has me and the dogs screwed up.
Pictures of 7-5Friday July 6th - Up and on the road to Helena, MT. John rode with us so he wouldn't have to rent a car and everyone helped him get around which worked out good for him. We drove through part of the Lewis and Clark mountain range, over Rogers pass at 5610 feet then Flesher Pass at 6131feet and saw some real pretty country. Alice and I were staying in a hotel for the night so we could have hot showers before the wedding. John got a room at the same place and later my sister in law Suzie and her new boyfriend Rick drove into town and also got a room at the same hotel. We left the dogs in the air conditioned room and went brewery hopping. Helena only has around 31,000 residents but boosts 5 breweries. We made it to 4, Lewis & Clark, 10-Mile, Crooked Furrow and Snow Hop, before meeting the wedding folks downtown. Alice and I ate prime rib at a Bert and Ernie's Restaurant which was excellent then found the Windbag Bar for drinks and good times with wedding guests and family. We made it back to the hotel around midnight.
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Saturday July 7th - WEDDING DAY. We milked the hotel room for as long as we could then hit a Wal-Mart before heading south 45 minutes to Boulder, MT. Jed and Shelley were getting married at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds which has some nice buildings and a wonderful older style barn for the reception. We met up with Dave and sat up our camper next to his in a grassy spot with electric. A shuttle bus was supposed to pick up folks in Helena and transport them to the fairgrounds then reverse it in the evening after the reception. The bus never showed up so Suzie and Rick filled their car with people and drove down. Some other folks had to use Uber to get there. The wedding was delayed about 20 minutes until everyone got there. It was a very short wedding but the self-written vows were really wonderful. About 60 people attended, most of Jed's from Ohio and Shelley's from Boston and Washington State. The usual wedding songs were played and dancing, good bbq, beer, laughter and games made for a great evening. After the reception there was a bonfire until everyone parted ways for the night. Alice and I kept Di's dog Frankie overnight and he was very restless. It wasn't until I heard the coyotes in the distance that I understood why. I put him and his crate in our car which calmed him down until morning.
Pictures of 7-7Sunday July 8th - Bright sunny morning but cool. I played with the dogs while Alice slept in. Roni and Daniel were having brunch for any guests still around so we soon packed up and drove the 15-20 minutes to their house in Jefferson City. They have a nice place with a great garden and chickens running around. Self-sufficiency is the way to go out west. After brunch we said goodbye to all our family and new friends and headed south, for West Yellowstone, MT. After 34 years I was going back to see the ole place. We saw our first bald eagle of the trip, sitting on a nest on top of a telephone pole next to a highway. We drove from Bozeman down highway 191 through the beautiful Gallatin Canyon which I remembered. That was and still is such a beautiful drive. We found a campsite just outside of West Yellowstone at a Forest Service campground named Rainbow Point on Hebgen Lake. After getting set up we headed to town. 34 years of progress had changed the little town I remembered. The only landmark I really wanted to visit was the Stagecoach Inn. The hotel, restaurant and 2 bars was a local staple where I spent more than one Thanksgiving and Christmas having drinks around the large stone fireplace. The bar door was locked. We walked around the huge corner lot to the hotel door which was open. The employee behind the counter told me the rest of the building closed 8 years ago. In fact, the campground host told me that 60% of West Yellowstone is now owned by the Chinese. Most of the tourists we saw were Chinese and man are they a rude type person. A few of the other buildings in town had familiar names but most were completely different. I now realize you can never go back to the old days, with old memories, in a new world. I did see a log cabin and an old house trailer I lived in but another cabin outside of town was gone. We found a newer restaurant-bar that served pizza then went back to camp. We had a little campfire which Alice loved. Alice is really good with campfires and this evening was her best evening so far on vacation. The dogs are really getting on her nerves with the rumble strips and just being in the car for so long and she is now calling me a nomad because we are moving all the time. The early morning I had planned for the next day didn't make her happy either.
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Monday July 9th - Yellowstone Day. Up at 5 and on the road by 6:15am. Got gas and entered the west entrance to the park which is where I worked. The rangers are not as friendly as I used to be. Went 14 miles to Madison Junction which has employee housing and saw a dorm I lived in one summer. It looked the same but the whole area has been enlarged with more housing and equipment. Then headed for Old Faithful stopping at some thermal basins on the way. We sat down to watch Old Faithful spout off and we didn't have to wait long. Saw the Old Faithful Lodge which I thought burnt in the fires of 1988 but I was told volunteers sprayed water continuously to save it. It is one massive wooden structure. We saw lots of old burn areas that are being reclaimed. The lodge pole pine trees in those areas are 10 to 12 foot tall now intermixed with dead stick like burnt trees. Going on around the loop towards Yellowstone Lake we saw some of the road turnouts do not allow vehicles towing trailers so we had to miss those. The lake was very calm in the late morning sun and the distant mountains reflecting in the water was awesome. Next was Yellowstone Falls, my favorite. The crowds were getting pretty thick now and it was getting hot. We couldn't leave the dogs in the car any longer and they were not allowed on the trails so Alice and I took turns. One would stay with the dogs next to the trailhead while the other saw the views then vice versa. It was amazing how many people came over to see and pet the dogs and wish they had theirs with them. But not the Chinese people. They acted like they were afraid of them. Next was Norris Junction were we took some time picnicking for lunch. It was cool in the shade and the dogs relaxed like Alice did with a little nap. On up to Mammoth Hot Springs but that took a while. Major road construction had us stopping and going for an hour. After Mammoth it was Tower - Roosevelt for gas then out the northeast entrance towards Cooke City. We took a 2-3 day Yellowstone tour in 10 hours like any good nomad would do. The Absaroka-Beartooth Wildness area was next. I wanted to drive the Beartooth Highway again, St Rt 212 which is an All American Highway. We stopped at Beartooth Lake Campground for the night at an elevation of 8,900 feet. The lake and the mountain behind were wonderful but the hordes of mosquitoes that attacked us were not. The worse mosquitoes of the trip. We walked the dogs, ate hamburger helper, tried to start a smoky fire then the rain started. It always rains up there and it was just enough to send us into the camper with an hour of daylight left. Very good sleeping weather.
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Tuesday July 10th - Woke to 50° and those damn mosquitoes. Got around fast and drove up towards the Beartooth Pass. It was gorgeous with snow still clinging to the mountain tops. We saw some mountain goats with young ones jumping and playing around, beautiful valleys, gullies and grasslands, a hang-glider and a guy trying to ski on that old snow. At 10,497 feet we crested the pass, saw the bears tooth and started downhill. Lots of motorcycles were coming up the east side moving right along as I crept slowly downward with palms sweating again. We sure were on top of the world and I didn't want to fall off. Red Lodge, MT was a gas stop at a Sinclair station and Alice had to give the dogs a ride on the dinosaur. It was funny. After driving from Wyoming, back into Montana we were now back in Wyoming going to the Bighorn Mountains in 95° heat. I have never seen the Bighorns but we quickly reached them and started uphill once more. The Bighorns are not as tall as the Beartooths but you start at a lower elevation for the climb which makes them steeper. The poor Jeep overheated almost to the top from shifting to low gear so much. We pulled off and let the baby cool for a bit then reached the summit. We took in the views then started downhill once more on some very tight switchbacks. Slow going but there were semi's passing the other way which made me wonder why they don't overheat. I'm glad we did 2 great mountain highways in one day. We finally made it back to an interstate highway hitting I-90 and driving east to Sheridan WY. We found the Pony Bar & Grill for lunch and they had an outdoor patio for the dogs since it was now 105°. Very hot and not many trees in that area of the state. In Sheridan we stopped at Wal-Mart for dog food then continued to drive and drive and drive to Custer South Dakota. We were now in the Black Hills where we stayed at Beaver Lake Campground, a private campground 9 miles from the Crazy Horse Memorial. We took showers, ate dinner and enjoyed a small Indian campfire. Soon we were lying in the camper exhausted from the long day in the car. 2 years ago on our New England vacation I started a song with one sentence that went nowhere. I finished it that evening lying in the teardrop with Alice, Tootsie, Benny, Muffy and myself. The lyrics go like this:
"You and me and dogs make five, we have a wonderful camping life. Drive and drive like nomads we trek, I'm making Alice a nervous wreck. The tours we make with dogs in tow, will be in our memories for many years to go. Soon our vacation will cease to exist, we will be home getting much needed rest."
Wednesday July 11th - It just so happened that Suzie and Rick went to visit Yellowstone also and drove to the Black Hills. They stayed in Rapid City S.D., called us and we rendezvous at Crazy Horse. The 4 of us explored the shops and museum of the American Indian. We saw half of Crazy Horse's face but didn't pay for the bus ride to see the other side. It was cloudy so we left the dogs in the car some. Next stop was Mt. Rushmore where we milled around taking pictures, shopping and eating ice cream. The Badlands of South Dakota was next but first to lunch at the Firehouse Brewery in Rapid City. Parking was very hard to find and when Suzie got there first she was told dogs are not allowed on their patio. Alice and I said the hell with that brewery and drove on to the Badlands. We met Suzie and Rick there later. I quickly researched how best to see the Badlands and read a website that said to take a road on the south end. I took it and was pissed. It was 25 miles of stones and washboards. The poor camper got beat to death and stone dust found its way into even crook and crevice there was. And I could only drive 15-25 mph. We did see cattle, prairie dogs and bighorn sheep with young, in a very alien looking terrain. Finally reach an asphalt road again and met other tourists. We stopped at the visitor's center near the end of the park where Rick and Suzie pulled up beside us. We said our goodbyes and both headed to Ohio taking different routes. Alice and I were going back through Indy to try and see Hal & Jeanette again. We drove and drove and drove east over South Dakota. The long day had all of us grumpy and bitchy. The dogs are really driving Alice nuts trying to get in the front seat so she is sitting in back all the time. It's my fault as I should not have insisted we bring them. We drove until 11:00pm then found a cheap Super 8 motel in Beresford, S.D. I had to talk the guy down from $10.00 per dog to $15.00 total. Hotels try to rape people with dogs and ours are cleaner than some people. What a long day with me being stupid and Alice tried of me and riding in a car. We did get some much needed sleep.
Pictures of 7-11Thursday July 12th - We didn't get on the road until 10:00am. Made Iowa pretty quick but it's another long state and drive is what we did. It took 4.5 hours to get through it but we finally crossed into Illinois drove halfway through and found a campground near Bloomington. Komfort Kampground was a nice clean place nestled between I-74 and a railroad track. Had supper, a little campfire and walked the dogs around the place. There were quite a few other Yorkie's in the campground.
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Friday July 13th - Another hot day. On the road by 8 heading east. Entered Indiana and called Hal. I forgot that him and Jeanette were working a golf tournament in southern Indiana and would not be home until Saturday evening so tried to blow right through Indy. Not happening. I-65 that I needed to get to I-70 was closed and we ended up on city streets trying to find a cross over to I-70. Found it and 2 hours later we saw the Ohio sign. We pulled into our driveway around 4:00pm to tall grass and an overgrown garden so it was time to get back to work.
It was a whirlwind trip with lots of driving, car riding and nervous dogs but we also saw lots of what America has to offer. Alice has vowed that she will never go with me again on a trip like that. She has offered our daughter Hailee as my next traveling companion. We'll see how that goes when the time comes. America is Great!!
Notes: Total mileage driven 4787. Gas bill $947.29, 2 Hotels $197.17, Misc. cash expediters $850.00